A good vehicle to tow behind RV travel starts with compatibility, not curb weight alone. The vehicle must stay within the motorhome’s published towing limits, work with the towing method approved by its manufacturer, and leave enough margin for the hitch, braking equipment, passengers, cargo, and fluids. For many motorhome owners, a compact SUV, small pickup, or vehicle with a manual transfer case can be practical, but only if it can be towed correctly. Before buying equipment or a “toad,” compare the actual loaded weights, the motorhome’s ratings, and the vehicle owner’s manual. That process prevents costly drivetrain damage and produces a calmer, more controlled setup on the road.
A good vehicle to tow behind RV use is one that meets four tests: it is approved for the intended towing method, it fits within the motorhome’s real-world ratings, it can be equipped with proper braking and lighting, and it still works for your needs after you park. A vehicle that meets only one or two of those tests may be light, popular, or inexpensive, but it is not necessarily a safe choice.
The manufacturer’s instructions for the vehicle matter most. Some automatic transmissions, all-wheel-drive systems, hybrids, electric vehicles, and four-wheel-drive systems have restrictions that make flat towing unsuitable. A vehicle may be towable on a trailer but not with its four wheels on the ground. Another may be suitable for a dolly only when the driven wheels are raised. Never assume that a similar model year, trim, or drivetrain shares the same rules.
Practicality at the campground matters too. A small car is easy to park, while a compact SUV may offer more ground clearance, cargo capacity, and room for bikes or groceries. A pickup may be useful for longer stays, but its weight can consume much of the motorhome’s available towing capacity. The right choice depends on the entire travel setup rather than a single specification.
Find the ratings on the motorhome’s certification label, hitch label, chassis documentation, and owner’s manual. If the labels or paperwork conflict, seek clarification from the motorhome manufacturer or a qualified RV service professional before setting up a tow system. A receiver hitch rating describes the hitch component; it does not automatically establish what the motorhome can safely pull.
| Rating or Measurement | What It Tells You | Why It Matters When Towing a Vehicle |
|---|---|---|
| Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) | Maximum allowed weight of the loaded motorhome. | A heavily loaded RV may already be near its limit before a vehicle is attached. |
| Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) | Maximum allowed weight of the motorhome and everything it tows. | This is often the central limit for a motorhome-and-toad combination. |
| Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR) | Maximum load allowed on each axle. | Hitch and tongue weight can affect rear-axle loading, especially with a trailer. |
| Hitch or receiver rating | Limit for the installed hitch assembly, including tow rating and tongue weight. | The towing setup must not exceed this rating, even if the chassis rating is higher. |
| Actual scale weight | What the RV and towed vehicle weigh when ready for travel. | It accounts for fuel, water, passengers, food, tools, accessories, and cargo. |
To estimate your available towing capacity, begin with the motorhome’s GCWR and subtract the motorhome’s actual loaded weight. The result is a planning figure, not a reason to load right to the limit. The towed total includes more than the vehicle: add the tow bar or dolly, base plate, safety cables, supplemental brake equipment, cargo carried in the vehicle, and any trailer weight.
Use a certified public scale once the RV is loaded as it will be for a trip. Weigh it with normal passengers, fuel, water if you routinely travel with water, propane, gear, and accessories. A motorhome that appears comfortably below its published GVWR in empty condition can be much closer to its combined limit after it is stocked for a long camping trip.
A motorhome may be advertised with a substantial tow rating, yet the capacity available on a particular trip can be lower. Added batteries, solar equipment, cargo carriers, full holding tanks, tools, and personal belongings all change the loaded RV weight. The lower applicable limit always controls.
Also consider how a full trailer affects the motorhome differently from flat towing. A tow bar puts relatively little vertical load on the receiver, while an enclosed or open car trailer adds tongue weight. That tongue weight must remain within the receiver’s limit and should not overload the motorhome’s rear axle.
The best vehicle is often determined by how you want to tow it. Flat towing is convenient at camp, a tow dolly can broaden your choices, and a full trailer offers the most universal vehicle compatibility. Each method adds different equipment, storage, loading, and weight considerations.
| Towing Method | How It Works | Best For | Main Limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat towing (four-down) | All four vehicle wheels remain on the road behind a motorhome. | Frequent RV travelers who want fast setup and no dolly or trailer to store. | The exact vehicle, drivetrain, and model year must be approved for four-down towing. |
| Tow dolly | The vehicle’s front or driven wheels ride on a two-wheel dolly. | Owners whose vehicles are approved only with certain wheels off the ground. | The dolly adds weight and needs parking space at many campsites. |
| Full car trailer | The complete vehicle rides on a trailer. | Vehicles not approved for road-wheel towing, and owners wanting drivetrain isolation. | It is heavier, has tongue-weight implications, and requires more room to maneuver. |
Flat towing, often called dinghy towing or four-down towing, is appealing because there is no trailer to back into a campsite or store. The equipment usually includes a compatible base plate, tow bar, safety cables or chains, lighting connection, breakaway device, and supplemental braking system. The exact setup must be rated for the load and installed according to the component manufacturers’ instructions.
Do not rely on a forum post, a salesperson’s memory, or a general statement that a model “can be flat towed.” Consult the owner’s manual for the exact year, powertrain, drivetrain, and trim. Follow any preparation steps exactly, including transfer-case position, transmission setting, ignition or accessory mode, fuse instructions, speed limitations, distance limitations, or periodic engine-running requirements if stated.
A tow dolly can suit many front-wheel-drive vehicles because it lifts the front wheels, but that does not make every front-wheel-drive vehicle automatically compatible. Rear-wheel-drive, all-wheel-drive, and electric drivetrains require particular care. Some vehicles need all wheels off the ground, while others have manufacturer procedures that permit dolly towing.
Dolly towing also requires a plan for loading, securing tire straps, connecting safety chains, and parking the dolly after arrival. Before committing, consider whether the campgrounds you use have space beside the site, a designated storage area, or a nearby overflow lot.
A car trailer keeps the vehicle’s tires and drivetrain off the road, which can make it the appropriate option for cars that cannot be flat towed or dolly towed. It can also be useful for low-clearance or specialty vehicles. The trade-off is a larger combined rig, greater total weight, trailer maintenance, and the need to manage tongue weight correctly.
Choose a trailer with sufficient capacity for the actual vehicle weight and secure the vehicle with approved tie-down equipment. A trailer may require brakes, lights, registration, and other equipment under state rules. Check the trailer manufacturer’s instructions and the regulations that apply where the rig is registered and operated.
There is no universal best dinghy vehicle. A good vehicle to tow behind RV travel should be easy to use after arrival, but the needs of a couple staying at full-hookup parks differ from those of a family visiting trailheads, beaches, and remote public lands.
| Vehicle Type | Good Fit For | Advantages | Watch Before Buying |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compact car | City sightseeing, errands, paved-road touring | Usually easier to park and may leave more towing margin | Confirm approved tow method, cargo room, and ground clearance |
| Compact SUV | Mixed campground access, groceries, day trips, outdoor gear | Useful seating and cargo space without moving into a large vehicle class | All-wheel-drive versions may have different towing rules than two-wheel-drive versions |
| Four-wheel-drive SUV | Travelers needing traction and access on suitable unpaved roads | May offer a transfer case and more capability at the destination | Weight, trim differences, and transfer-case instructions must be checked closely |
| Small or midsize pickup | Long stays, equipment hauling, outdoor hobbies | Bed space and utility after the RV is parked | Can be relatively heavy and may reduce available towing margin quickly |
A compact car can be an excellent choice for paved-road travelers, particularly if the motorhome has modest capacity. It is not automatically preferable if it leaves you unable to carry mobility equipment, pets, recovery gear, or passengers comfortably. Similarly, a four-wheel-drive vehicle may be worthwhile for a specific travel style, but it should not be selected solely because it is commonly associated with RV towing.
The vehicle, motorhome, tow bar, base plate, braking system, wiring, and safety connections work as one system. Installing a high-rated tow bar does not solve a vehicle manufacturer restriction or a motorhome weight limitation. Each component must be compatible with the others and used within its rating.
Supplemental braking is a major safety and compliance consideration. It helps the towed vehicle contribute braking force and typically includes a breakaway function that applies the towed vehicle’s brakes if it separates from the motorhome. Requirements vary by state, and equipment makers have specific installation procedures. Confirm that the braking system works with the towed vehicle’s power-brake, battery, and ignition configuration.
Curb weight does not include all travel cargo, accessories, or necessarily the equipment added for towing. Use loaded scale weights and account for the full towing system. A vehicle that seems comfortably light on paper may leave little practical margin once prepared for a trip.
A change from front-wheel drive to all-wheel drive, a different transmission, or a hybrid powertrain can change the towing instructions. Check the manual for the exact vehicle identification and configuration you intend to buy, not merely the model name.
This is most relevant with a car trailer, where tongue weight transfers load to the motorhome. A combination can remain below a claimed tow rating while still overloading the receiver or rear axle. Proper loading and scale verification are essential.
Make the first trip a short local run in daylight. Check braking response, light operation, steering behavior, connection security, and clearance during turns. Learn the total rig length before attempting fuel stations, campground loops, or tight parking areas.
The phrase “tow behind an RV” commonly refers to a motorhome towing a passenger vehicle. If you own a travel trailer, your tow vehicle is already pulling the trailer, and adding a car behind it creates a double-tow arrangement. Legality, allowable length, required endorsements, and equipment rules vary by state, while many travel trailer frames and hitches are not intended for that use. Do not proceed without specific manufacturer approval and a careful review of the laws for your entire route.
The easiest option is usually a vehicle that its manufacturer specifically approves for flat towing and that fits comfortably within the motorhome’s weight limits. Flat towing avoids storing a dolly or trailer, but it still requires compatible base plates, braking equipment, lighting, and strict adherence to the owner’s manual.
No. Neutral does not necessarily disconnect an automatic transmission, transfer case, electric motor, or all-wheel-drive system from the wheels. Towing an unapproved vehicle four-down can damage drivetrain components, so use only the procedure stated in the vehicle’s owner’s manual.
Supplemental braking is strongly advisable for control and is required in many jurisdictions under conditions that vary by state. It also commonly includes a breakaway feature. Check the rules where you travel and make sure the braking system is compatible with both the motorhome and the towed vehicle.
That is usually a poor planning approach. The available capacity may be reduced by the motorhome’s loaded weight, and the combined total includes towing hardware, cargo, and possibly a dolly or trailer. Leave a sensible margin and confirm the rig’s actual weights on a scale.
Neither method is automatically safer in every situation. A properly matched and maintained tow dolly can be appropriate for vehicles approved for that method, while a properly installed flat-tow system can be equally practical for an approved four-down vehicle. Compatibility, loading, braking, inspection, and driver awareness matter more than choosing one method by default.
Some states permit certain forms of double towing, but many restrictions apply and the rules differ by location. More importantly, the travel trailer’s frame, hitch, and manufacturer guidance must support the arrangement. For most travel trailer owners, transporting a car behind the trailer is not a simple or appropriate option.
A good vehicle to tow behind RV travel is one you can tow within every applicable limit, prepare according to its manufacturer’s instructions, and use comfortably once you reach camp. Start with measured motorhome weight and verified ratings, then select the towing method and vehicle together. If there is uncertainty about a drivetrain restriction, hitch capacity, braking setup, or axle loading, pause before purchase and get guidance from the relevant vehicle or RV manufacturer and a qualified installer. That extra check is far less inconvenient than discovering a mismatch after the rig is already on the road.